All jewelers, including us at Robert Palma Designs always talk about the 4 C’s. But choosing the right diamond or gemstone for your ring (FOR BOTH HIM AND HER) doesn’t start or end at the gem(s) chosen. Selecting the right ring is not just a question of finding the right style or look of a wedding ring. The choices for metal options nowadays is a bit more complex as now there is a whole range of possibilities to consider beyond yellow and white or gold and platinum. You should also consider how your wedding ring metal choice affects your budget; how it feels in your hand or on your finger; how much up-keep and maintenance is needed (you don’t want to choose a material that will tarnish or break easily); how it will affect the gems you want; even whether or not you may be allergic to a certain metal or not. There are so many factors to consider.
PLATINUM
Platinum is a white metal and the most expensive and prestigious option for a ring. It’s always been a preferred metal choice for engagement rings and wedding bands because of its high value and it is a pure white metal that won’t change color or fade. Platinum is also used in rings at almost 100% purity. It's non-corrosive which means it will never tarnish but over time it will naturally develop a “patina” which is a thin layer of film that gives it an antique look. The bright color and scratch-less surface can be restored by seeing your jeweler for re-polishing. It has a density and a heft to it that makes platinum highly durable so it doesn’t wear over time and this strength makes it the most secure setting for diamonds. It is also hypoallergenic, so the wearer never has to worry about any allergic reactions caused by the metal. A wedding ring metal with no weaknesses? That’s platinum.
GOLD
We could have chosen to write endlessly on just this one metal type. But unlike the other metals, gold come in a number of colors nowadays: white, yellow, rose and the less common, green (yes, green gold!). Gold is a fantastic metal for jewelry. In fact, we can trace the use of gold in jewelry throughout the history of mankind. Why gold? Natural beauty and incredible malleability are the two main reasons. But whichever color you choose, while 18k gold is more valuable, it is softer and will scratch easier than 14k gold will. A higher karat amount means a purer gold content. However, this also means a less durable metal. For this reason, usually 14K or 18K gold is used to mount engagement and wedding rings.
Yellow gold engagement rings are having a renaissance of sorts from shiny styles to matte finishes - yellow gold is the traditional choice for wedding rings. A mixture of pure gold, copper and silver gives yellow gold jewellery its signature warmth. Yellow gold is starting to see a comeback in trend.
More contemporary than yellow gold, white gold gets its silvery white character from combining yellow gold with copper, zinc and nickel (or palladium). It’s plated with a hard element called rhodium (a platinum group metal), which costs about four times as much as platinum, resists scratches and tarnishing, and gives white gold a reflective appearance. However, it may wear away over time, requiring a quick trip to your jeweler for re-plating
Rose gold (also known as pink or red gold) is gold mixed with a copper alloy. This metal for engagement rings has a very subtle and delicate color that may intensify over time. It is created by increasing the copper colored alloys and decreasing the silver colored alloys that are mixed with gold. 14K rose gold contains as much pure gold as 14K white gold; it is merely the mix of the alloys that has been changed to create the rose colored look to the engagement ring
Green gold was known to the Lydians as long ago as 860 BC under the name electrum, a naturally occurring alloy of silver and gold. While not all that common, green gold is unusual and nature-inspired; it has a soft, pale green color created by mixing yellow gold with silver, copper and zinc.. 18k green gold will be greener than 14k green gold.
PALLADIUM
Palladium is one of the most luxurious options for rings. It is naturally white, durable, lightweight, and resilient to discoloration. As a member of the platinum metal group, palladium is one of the rarest kinds of precious metals, making it one of the most esteemed. And since it doesn't require alloys or plating, it is usually at least 95% pure. Palladium is most commonly used in men's and women's wedding bands, rather than decorative jewelry, due to its high price and longevity. Palladium also is hypoallergenic, so it will not cause allergic reactions that may be experienced by other types of ring metals. It is also less dense and therefore feels much lighter in weight than its heavy metal brother platinum.
STERLING SILVER
Silver is a softer metal, making it more susceptible to scratching and other damage. It also has a greater tendency to oxidize than other metals, causing the silver in rings to turn black sometimes. It must be noted though that if oxidization does occur, silver can be restored rather easily with simple silver jewelry cleaner. Silver is one of the most abundant of all the precious metals. Still, for these reasons, silver is best suited for men's and women's fashion rings and other rings that will be worn on occasion rather than daily. This limitation means silver is not a common or wise choice for men's and women's engagement and wedding rings. Its affordability and striking luster still make it an attractive option for other cocktail rings and right-hand rings.
TITANIUM
Titanium is an ideal metal for making jewellery due to its properties; it is incredibly strong and durable in comparison to other metals, such as gold. It is distinguished by its darker colour and lighter weight. Titanium is a lustrous gray metal that is a naturally occurring element. It is very lightweight and comfortable to wear. Titanium is stronger than gold or platinum and is 3 times stronger than steel, so this is a wedding ring that will last a life. Another fantastic attribute of titanium is that it is hypo-allergenic, making it perfect for those with sensitivities to wearing jewellery.
TUNGSTEN
Tungsten Carbide has grown in popularity in recent years. Tungsten is a dark gray glossy metal - a compound of tungsten and carbon that is hard, heavy and durable. A tungsten carbide ring will stand up to any degree of wear and tear and remain looking like new. One major benefit of tungsten carbide rings is that their durability makes them much more scratch resistant than rings made of other metals. A tungsten ring will also always retain its bright, shiny luster. They have a permanent polish, meaning they don't have to be polished or need as much maintenance as rings made of other metals.
The drawback of tungsten carbide's durability is that it If a tungsten ring is dropped or severely knocked on a hard surface, it can potentially fracture the ring. Tungsten rings cannot be cut and resoldered which prevents rings made of the metal from being resized. This makes having your finger sized accurately extremely important when buying a tungsten carbide ring. In addition, tungsten rings can be difficult to remove in an emergency situations.
COBALT
Cobalt is becoming increasingly popular for wedding bands. It’s very similar in color to white gold, but much stronger, and at a great price. Cobalt is a natural, hypoallergenic metal. It is the whitest contemporary metal offered today and looks similar to Platinum. Cobalt will not tarnish and does not need any rhodium plating. Cobalt is less dense than other metals, allowing for greater height and shape to be yielded into designs. It is extremely hard and scratch resistant, so Cobalt offers tremendous durability and wearability and will maintain its luster and hold its polish. Cobalt rings cannot be resized.
CARBON FIBER
Black is the new trend. Although black metals can be achieved with different metals, technically, carbon fiber isn’t a metal but rather a material made of tightly woven fibers so a 100% carbon fiber ring actually has no metal in it. Most carbon fiber rings on the market are a combination of metal and carbon fiber inlay. What this means is that a strip of carbon fiber is placed within a groove in a metallic ring. Carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials used for wedding rings and can withstand rough wear and exposure without suffering too much damage. While some metals tend to shatter or crack when dropped, like tungsten or ceramic, carbon fiber does not. In fact, you could drive over a carbon fiber ring and it would bounce right back up. If your carbon fiber ring does acquire scratches and scuff marks over time, these can easily be polished out with fine sandpaper. Carbon fiber is extremely light weight, hypoallergenic, is extremely versatile and flexible and can be made using a variety of fiber types and are very reasonably priced. Carbon fiber rings cannot be resized.
MIXING METALS
To make your option even greater - let’s discuss mixing metals. There was a time when mixing metals was a total “no-no”. But as engagement ring styles defy tradition, more and more, that’s what “custom” is all about. And its not just about mixing rose gold and white gold - think beyond two-tone rings. Think beyond stacked rings (which are essentially individual single colored rings). Mokume rings incorporate 3 - 4 different metals for a truly remarkable and unique look. There are unlimited possibilities and designs in mixing metals from subtle to extremely contrasted.
HAVE FUN!
As always, everything we do is built around you ...one piece at a time. Give us a call to make your appointment.
Robert Palma Designs
